O & W Trek Campgrounds & Refugios in Torres del Paine, Chile

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When I was planning my O Circuit trek, I was so excited to finally experience the beauty of Patagonia. But the planning was a little more stressful than I imagined because I could not find solid information about what the campgrounds on this hike looked like.

I’m used to wilderness camping in the backcountry in the USA – and we generally don’t have designated campgrounds in the wild for backpackers, let alone full service refugios!

I wasn’t nervous per se, but I was just confused and wanted to know what the experience was actually like so I could properly prepare: could I buy extra food? Would I have to line up to charge my phone? Is there indoor space for campers if the weather is bad?

I hiked the full O Circuit in January 2023 and exclusively camped with my own tent and gear. But since campers still get access to the refugio communal areas, I was able to experience (and take notes on!) both sides, and I’m sharing all of it here.

This guide is everything I wish I’d had before the trek. I break down every campground and refugio along the O and W routes: what to expect, how they’re different, and how to prep for each.

Doing the W trek only? This post is still for you! Just skip the 3 campgrounds that are exclusive to the full O Circuit.

field of tents at paine grande campground in Torres del Paine

Torres del Paine Campground & Refugio Overview

I will be completely honest, I had no idea what to expect going into this hike! I am very used to backcountry camping in the western United States, where dispersed camping reigns supreme on backpacking trips. And in parks where there are designated backcountry campsites, they are usually undeveloped, maybe containing a pit toilet if you’re lucky!

Camping along the O Circuit actually spoiled me! All of the campgrounds had flushing toilets, potable water, and food for purchase. And most of them had indoor kitchen areas for backpackers. Talk about luxury!

As a backpacker in Torres del Paine, you are required to stay in designated campgrounds and lodging, no matter what.

Dispersed camping is strictly forbidden. You are also not allowed to use a cook stove anywhere except in designated kitchen areas at the designated campgrounds/ refugios throughout the national park, due to concerns about wildfire.

What Is a Refugio?

A Refugio is essentially a hostel in the wilderness. The refugios in Torres del Paine are remote but have all the amenities of a front country establishment.

The quality of the refugios varies along the trail, which I’ll dive into more on an individual basis below, but for the most part, they each have indoor and outdoor sleeping areas, a dining hall/ restaurant, indoor bathrooms with showers, a small store, and electricity!

Refugios serve food as well, if you are purchasing a meal plan.

Names of the Refugios and Campgrounds on the O Route

There are two entities that run the refugios along the O Circuit. Las Torres (formerly: Fantastico Sur) and Vertice.

Las Torres runs Central, Seron, Frances, Cuernos, and Chileno.

Vertice runs Dickson, Los Perros, Grey, and Paine Grande.

In the past, CONAF (the National Park Service of Chile) ran three campgrounds along the trail (Paso, Italiano, and Torres). These campgrounds do not have facilities like the Refugios, and they have not been open since before the covid-19 pandemic, and I will not be discussing them in this post.

The Order of the Campgrounds & Refugios on the O Circuit

Beginning from Central, in counter-clockwise order:

  • Central
  • Seron (O Circuit only)
  • Dickson (O Circuit only)
  • Los Perros (O Circuit only)
  • Grey
  • Paine Grande
  • Frances
  • Cuernos
  • Chileno
Stay at Chileno to experience sunrise at Lago Torres

Campsites or Refugios on the O and W Treks: Which Is Right For Me?

I think this really depends on so many things! If you have your heart set on the O or W, I would book whatever is available for you to do this bucket-list trip!

In reality, this will most likely come down to budget, experience, availability, and overall travel plans for most people.

Budget

Camping is a lot less expensive than staying in a refugio. Because of this, it’s the most popular way to hike the O Circuit, and these are the first to book up every year. If you’re planning to camp with a friend or partner, definitely consider sharing a tent because it will be cheaper overall. Las Torres gives you a discount for double occupancy campsites (must share a tent).

Pay close attention though: there are different campground “tiers” with the company Las Torres. They have some sites that are bring-your-own tent and sleeping gear, and other campsites that come with a pre-setup tent and sleep system. 

The Vertice company does it a little different: you can rent gear from them for camping (additional cost) or just book a simple campsite and bring your own gear.

Experience Level

If you’ve never been backpacking before and it makes you nervous to carry all of your own gear or travel with a ton of camping gear, I’d think about staying in the refugios vs. the campground. 

If you’re used to backpacking and carrying all of your gear, you’ll be well prepared to stay at the campgrounds.

Don’t let lack of experience hold you back from camping: campers can still use common areas, shop at the small convenience stores at the Refugios, use the WiFi, take showers and use flush toilets, and cook inside the cooking rooms! Camping in Torres del Paine is far from roughing it, in my opinion!

Availability

Let’s face it – the O and W treks are some of the most popular backpacking routes in the world! You might just need to book whatever is available – whether that’s a campsite or a dorm bed in the refugio.

I met multiple hikers on my loop who booked their trip late and some nights they were staying in the refugio and other nights they were camping, so it’s not unheard of to do this mixed combo!

If you end up going the combo route, just think about booking the right combo of sites. Maybe you mostly book campground-only and bring all of your gear but you book ONE spot in a Refugio – you probably won’t be that annoyed to be carrying all of your gear.

On the flip side, if you mostly booked rental gear campsites and Refugio beds because that was what’s available, but you also booked ONE fully self-supported camping spot… you’d probably end up being annoyed at yourself for carrying a tent and sleeping pad for the entire week just for that one campsite.

Travel Plans

If you are trying to squeeze the O or W Trek into a longer trip in Chile or Argentina and this would be the only time you’re going to use backpacking gear, you’ll probably want to book the Refugio or rented-gear campsite style.

If this is all you’re doing in the Patagonia region or you’re also going up to El Chaltén for a backpacking trip and you want to use your own gear, booking the campsite-only option is the way to go.

Meals at the Refugios vs. Bring Your Own Food

In addition to differences in where you stay on the O Circuit, you can choose to pay for food at the refugios, bring your own, or a mix of both!

What you decide to do will depend on what’s available at booking, your budget, and how much food you want to carry on the hike.

Cooking at the Campgrounds

I did the O Trek completely DIY and brought all of my own backpacking meals from the states. I brought everything into Chile in original packaging on my flight and re-packaged the meals into ziplock bags once I cleared customs and was in Puerto Natales (to save some space in my pack).

This worked well for me because I saved a lot of money bringing in my own food, but I also bought some snacks along the way like Pringles and cookies!

Every campground has a snack shack attached to it. They vary on what they carry – some are bare bones like Los Perros and Francés, some are amazing like Grey and Paine Grande. You could find chips, cookies, and even pasta and mashed potatoes at these convenience stores.

If you are bringing your own food, just realize that there isn’t any food storage at campgrounds: you sleep with your food in your tent (I had no issues with this), and you are required to cook food in the campground kitchen areas: you are NOT allowed to use a camp stove outside of these buildings.

You also should bring your own backpacking stove, pot, and fuel if bringing your own food since these supplies are not provided.

2025 update: I have heard that you may be able to ask refugio staff for boiling water now. This wasn’t available to me in 2023, so I can’t say for sure. If you’ve hiked the trail more recently and have updated info, let me know!

Paying For Meals at the Refugios

Every single campground/ refugio has a “board” option, except for Los Perros. You can do full board for breakfast/lunch/dinner, or partial board options. Each board does have vegetarian options that you need to book in advance.

If you want to go the full board route, you should book everything in advance when you book your campsite. 

Some of the refugios will allow you to put your name down at check-in for a dinner or breakfast ticket if they have space, and nearly all of them will allow you to book a box lunch for the next day, but you should not count on this if it’s not available for booking online in advance.

Certain refugios do have on-demand kitchens though with their own menus! And you don’t need to book in advance. I bought a pizza at Paine Grande and a “quesadilla” (it was NOT a normal quesadilla – there was no cheese…) at Chileno. You can also buy beer and wine at the bars on site.

How Much Do Refugios and Campgrounds Cost?

The cost varies between the companies and the kind of lodging you are booking. You’re most likely going to be staying at 4 Vertice properties and 3 Las Torres properties for the 7 nights of your trek. In comparing the W Trek and O Circuit, you’ll usually spend less money on the W since you’re staying less nights (but not always!)

On my trip in 2023, Las Torres campsites were $37 (single occupancy) and $50 (double occupancy). Hostel beds were $125. The Vertice campsites were $10 each night/person, with Paine Grande being $12, and hostel beds were $40 and $59 respectively per person.

Things have gotten much more expensive in recent years. Below is a quick summary of what you can expect to pay when you’re making your bookings – prices are for the high season in 2025-2026.

Camping – Campsite only

  • Vertice: $12 – $14 USD per person.
  • Las Torres: $40-50 per person for double occupancy, $70-90 pp for single occupancy.

Gear Rentals

  • Vertice: Tent $46, sleeping bag $29, sleeping pad $13 ($88 for all).
  • Las Torres: Tent, bag, pad – $270. Tent + pad only $200. Includes campsite cost.

Refugios

  • Vertice: $43 – $105 depending on refugio and bedding options.
  • Las Torres: $207 – $640 depending on refugio, occupancy, and room choice.

Board

  • Vertice: Full board $100, half board $68
  • Las Torres: Full board $130, half board $90

General Cost Approximations for the O Circuit (per person)

  • Completely self-supported camping: ~$330 USD
  • Camping with renting gear: ~$1,220 USD
  • Refugio style with your own food: ~$1,050 USD
  • Refugio style + full board: ~$1,750+ USD

In general, camping with your own gear and food is the cheapest option for the O Circuit, and Vertice is much more affordable than Las Torres.

How Do You Book Campsites and Refugios for the O and W Treks?

I will tell you, I was so lost at first when planning my trip! I was lucky that my friend had already laid out the itinerary and the dates we were going to camp everywhere. So, let me try to help you not be as lost as I was!

First, you need to look at a map (see below), get the lay of the land, and see where the campsites are. Familiarize yourself with the order of the sites.

Second, you should think about how aggressive or laid-back you want your itinerary to be.

Third, think about keeping your route options open. You have a few itineraries you can choose from when planning the O Circuit or W Trek. You can only travel counter-clockwise over John Gardner Pass though on the O Loop, so keep that in mind.

You can book all of the campgrounds/ Refugios that Las Torres owns here.

You can book all of the campgrounds/ Refugios that Vertice owns here.

map showing locations of campgrounds and Refugios on the o circuit

When Should I Make Camping Reservations?

For my trip I January 2023, I was able to book my campsites on June 23, 2022, and had no problem securing the camping-only itinerary I wanted.

I haven’t been able to find an exact date for reservations to be released as the companies don’t really announce it, but the date is getting earlier and earlier every year. This year (2025), all of the camping-only slots at Las Torres booked up by early May.

I did meet a few people on the trek who told me they booked too late (summer, fall) for campsites and had to book the Refugio.

I didn’t realize that camping with your own gear is the most popular way to do the hike, but it sounds like it is! It makes sense since that is the least expensive way to do the trek.

Details on Every O Circuit Campground in Torres del Paine

Since I had no idea what to expect going into my hike, I knew I wanted to give back to the Internet a bit and help people see what the Refugios and campgrounds are like!

So I took notes and loads of pictures at every single Refugio/ campground about the amenities and what to expect!

Please note that I did not stay in any Refugio, so my notes are mainly about the campground and what to expect as a tent camper, but I did experience all communal indoor areas in the Refugios as well.

Central

  • Check-in: At the kiosk across the small bridges behind the Refugio building. They will give you a sticker to attach to your tent.
  • Bathrooms: Flush toilets and four showers per gender. Hot water is available after 3:00 pm. Located next to the check-in kiosk. Do not flush your toilet paper, use the provided bins.
  • Charging electronics: Shared power banks were provided at the camping kiosk. Needed a USB-A cord to use. They had power at 7:00 am for me.
  • Camping location: Set your tent up anywhere where there’s an obvious camping space & not where there’s a no camping symbol. Tents were pretty much everywhere.
  • Dining area: There is a three-sided tent structure behind the bathroom building with multiple picnic tables for cooking. A few sinks for washing dishes, but I’d bring your own small soap and dish scrub. The sink water is potable for drinking.
  • Trash service: Trash and recycling cans are provided in the vicinity.
  • Chill, slightly party vibe. Workers were playing music most of the day until quiet hour.
  • Campsite is pretty separated from the Refugio by a few footbridges over a wash – probably water there at times but was dry currently.
  • If staying at the campsite but you purchased meals or want to purchase meals at the Refugio, go to the reception desk inside the Refugio, not the campsite kiosk.
  • Central has luggage storage available! You can inquire at the reception desk inside the Refugio.
Information about luggage storage
Refugio dorm rooms from the outside
Camping area mix of platforms and ground

Seron

  • Check-in: Inside the main building with picnic tables outside, not the domes. You’ll need to show your passport and Chile tourist visa ticket from immigration.
  • Bathrooms: One bathroom and shower per gender. There can be a line! The hot water is available later in the day, I think by 3:00 pm. Note: by 9 pm, the women’s room was out of toilet paper and nearly out of paper towels – so bring your own TP just in case!
  • Charging electronics: Shared power banks were provided, there were probably 8-10 USB-A ports in total. I did see a couple more power outlets around the main building. I’m not entirely sure when the power shuts off, but it most likely will eventually. Definitely ask the employees, and if you are charging things, be respectful of others and watch your stuff to make sure you’re not hogging charging ports. Take your stuff out when it’s sufficiently charged to make room for others.
  • Camping location: The camping area is a huge field. There is some wind protection towards the back and left side, so I’d highly recommend setting your tent up in that area. Though many other people will as well, so be prepared for neighbors! We were the first people to set up in our area and found our tents surrounded by other tents by late afternoon.
  • Dining area: There is a cooking tent with 2 picnic tables inside. It was too crowded to cook dinner inside of it, we cooked at the tables behind the bathrooms that had a slight awning – not that it was very protective when it was raining since it was also so windy. Luckily, it only rained for a minute. There was an outdoor sink for washing dishes – the water is potable so you can fill up bottles there too.
  • Convenience store: You can buy snacks at the check-in desk. It is a very small selection. Fuel may be available, but don’t count on it.
  • Trash service: Trash and recycling cans are provided.
  • WiFi: Yes, I overheard a group next to us saying it was slower than they thought so maybe not worth it to purchase here.
  • Trail goes directly into the campsite/ Refugio.
  • The indoor area/ dining hall for meal plan hikers is pretty small. There are two picnic tables directly outside of this building too. There was also a large bottle of sunscreen for communal use in the building.
  • You can use the dining hall to hang out in when they let you (I.e. no benches on the tables), they kicked us out at 6:20 in order to clean the area for the dinner service.
  • Campers have the option to purchase the actual meals – you just need to inquire at the check-in desk right when you get there. They also serve hamburgers and pizza on request during mealtime. See the posted hours when you get there.
  • Dinner service seemed like it was finishing up around 9 pm.

Dickson

Check-in with rangers first in the ranger cabin. They kind of give you an overview for the next hiking day to Los Perros camp.

  • Check-in: In the main building with covered deck. Desk opened at 1:00 pm, which is exactly when we arrived after leaving Seron at 7:15. Passport and tourist entrance ticket to Chile required. Check-in area also houses the convenience store.
  • Bathrooms: There’s a men’s & women’s bathroom. 2 stalls and 2 showers for women. No soap, paper towels, or hand sanitizer when we were there, but lots of toilet paper! Do not flush toilet paper. Not hot water in the sinks, but I believe the hot water for showers turned on at 2 or 4 pm, goes until 10 pm.
  • Charging electronics: There are outlets in the kitchen room. They originally worked, but around midday, there seemed to be a generator/ power issue And they were not working for a bit. But they started up again a couple of hours later. More outlets in this room than at Seron.
  • Camping area: Behind the check-in building and pre-set tents. The area is relatively protected within small trees and shrubs, but it can get incredibly windy here. We saw the wind rip through and pull tents up from their stakes, so stake down your tent well! Camping is not allowed at the beach.
  • Dining area: A room within the main building. There are 2 long tables and a sink & drying rack. Much better set up for cooking than Seron. Campers can stay in here all day too if the weather is bad, but should make room for people who want to use their stoves. You are not allowed to cook at the outdoor picnic tables, but you can eat there.
  • Convenience store: Packaged snacks, cold beers and soda, wine by the glass, and salami to purchase. You could also order pizza or a hamburger. There was a bottle of sunscreen on the counter for anyone to use.
  • Trash service: Trash cans are provided.
  • WiFi: No.
  • The Refugio is a separate building – meals for people who paid are served in their dining area, not the camper area.
  • There are 2 very nice and new-looking cabins that seem like they’re in the middle of building right before you get to the main check-in/ Refugio area.
  • Whole campsite/ Refugio is on the shore of Lago Dickson with really beautiful views of the surrounding mountains.
Main building at Dickson
Camping area at Dickson
The scenery at Dickson.

Los Perros

  • Check-in: Begins at 1:00 pm, but they will let you set your camping gear up before then if you arrive early. Passport and tourist entrance ticket to Chile required.
  • Bathrooms: Mens & women’s bathrooms. No hot water. 1 shower and 2 toilet stalls. Do not flush your toilet paper.
  • Charging electronics: Multiple working outlets in the dining area, which is open 24/7.
  • Camping area: Behind the pre-set tents within the Lenga forest. Very sheltered at this location, and the smallest camping area.
  • Dining area: Enclosed building attached to the check-in building and bathrooms. This room gets really warm when there are lots of people in it – which was awesome when I was there because it was absolutely freezing outside!
  • Convenience store: Very small and located behind the check-in desk. The packaged snacks are more expensive than at Dickson. The fridge was empty when I was there, so they could have cold drinks occasionally.
  • Trash service: None, all trash has to be packed out.
  • WiFi: No.
  • Has a covered porch but seems to get wetter than at Dickson. Picnic tables on the porch that you can eat at, but not cook.
  • No hot food here, and if you wanted the meals, those needed to be reserved before the start of your trip. You can’t walk in and ask if there are any more meal tickets.
  • The Refugio dining room is in a separate building.
  • Required check-out time of 7 am (different than the ranger’s instructions).
  • Short hike back to Laguna Los Perros – super pretty lake & glacier! If I didn’t have awful weather and a foot injury, I would definitely backtrack here for an evening walk.
  • Check in with the ranger cabin first. They had a list of names staying for the night, and you need to show your passport and tourist ticket. The ranger I had only spoke Spanish – but the most pertinent information was that we had to be climbing by 6:30 am since they don’t want people getting stuck at the top of the pass in bad weather. Interestingly enough, all of our worst weather has been in the morning hours on this trip.
Tents in the wet Lenga forest of Los Perros.
Sign for camp Perros
Outdoor adventure group enjoying a warm meal in a cozy mountain cabin after a day of backcountry hiking or skiing.

Grey

  • Check-in: The first building you arrive at from the direction of the pass/ glacier. There is a check-in window. You need to provide your passport and tourist ticket.
  • Bathrooms: Located next to the check-in window and dining area. Men’s & women’s with plenty of stalls, but no hot water in the sinks. Do not flush your toilet paper. Showers are in a separate building between the check-in building and the Refugio building. Do not count on soap to be available.
  • Charging electronics: Many power banks provided – USB-A ports only.
  • Camping area: The pre-set rental tents are in a separate area. When you are walking down the trail from the pass/ glacier, you’ll see the self-supported camper area first, followed by the rental tent area, then the camper check-in building. The camping area is large and protected from wind.
  • Dining area: Like Dickson and Los Perros, the dining room is attached to the main check-in building. It is slightly smaller than Los Perros, and the doors don’t open until 7:00 am.
  • Convenience store: Well-stocked with snacks, toiletries, a coffee maker, cold drinks, and fuel!
  • Trash service: Trash cans are provided.
  • WiFi: Yes.
  • Overall, super nice amenities!
  • The Refugio building is located next to the shower house. This is where the Refugio guests stay and check-in.
  • Refugio has a bar, seating area, and a restaurant. The restaurant is for the paying board guests, but anyone can sit in the bar. They have quite a few options for food including pizza and hamburgers. I did not order a pizza (regrettably), but the table next to ours did and it looked and smelled yummy. Pizzas are personal sized for hungry hikers – less hungry could share between 2 people. The seating area has leather couches and a wood-burning fireplace. It’s a great spot to relax and chat!
  • Refugio deck has Adirondack-style chairs to relax in.
  • The general Grey area has a dock where the Bigfoot Glacier Grey company has an outpost – you can book tours at the check-in desk in the Refugio building. Tours include kayaking near Glacier Grey and a crampon walking tour on the glacier! The outpost also has a dock where the ferry lands.
  • This would be an excellent place for a rest day if you wanted to take one.
Rustic mountain cabin deck with wooden accents and outdoor seating, perfect for backcountry adventures and relaxation.
Refugio deck
Portable tent set up in a lush forest camping site for outdoor adventure.
Camping area

Paine Grande

  • Check-in: Follow signs for camping check-in. The check-in office is next to the convenience store. Passport and tourist card are needed. We were able to check in at 11:30 am.
  • Bathrooms: Bathrooms are close to campsites. There are two buildings with 2 sets of showers and multiple toilet stalls each per bathroom. Do not flush your toilet paper, and do not expect shower soaps.
  • Charging electronics: Tons of outlets inside the Refugio.
  • Camping area: In a field behind the buildings. It is very windy here and there are small windbreaks built to attempt to block the wind. They do a mediocre job. Dust from the camp area gets on EVERYTHING in your tent – be prepared. Make sure to bring shoes (and mostly everything) into the tent with you as apparently there are some foxes that like to come around and inspect the area.
  • Dining area: Huge camper cooking building with sinks provided inside. This building opens at 7:00 am, but the worker opened it at 6:30 am when we were there.
  • Convenience store: Attached to the main Refugio building. Well stocked with lots of snacks and some gear items like fuel.
  • Trash service: Trash and recycling cans are provided.
  • WiFi: Yes. And, it reached the beginning of the camping area.
  • The campground/ Refugio is a slight detour from the trail, just follow the signs.
  • Situated right on lake Pehoe, the catamaran is here that runs to Pudeto.
  • The Refugio building is the biggest on the trail. It has dorm rooms, check-in for Refugio, a huge dining hall, and an upstairs bar area where you can buy drinks, pizza, and hamburgers. The house special pizza was pretty dang good! This building also has the camping check-in desk and a convenience store.
  • The busiest Refugio besides Central since day visitors will take the catamaran over to day hike to Valle Frances and other spots.
The main Refugio building with camping to the right. The lake is to the left.
Camping area at Paine Grande.
Campground check-in
Refugio check-in

Frances

  • Check-in: From the sign on the trail, you’ll go uphill and see a small kiosk on your left. This is the check-in booth for campers.
  • Bathrooms: From the sign on the trail, you’ll go downhill and see a large sink area on your right, continue just a few steps further and you will see a large building, also on your right. There are multiple toilets and showers. These were the nicest bathroom facilities on the trail! Liquid soap was provided in the shower stalls. Like all toilets, do not flush your toilet paper.
  • Charging electronics: The check-in kiosk has a few outlets and power banks. You can leave your things with them to charge until 9:00 pm.
  • Camping area: The camping area is up on a hill and on platforms only. I had no issues setting up my nonfreestanding tent. Plenty of rocks around for guylines and the platforms have hooks and nails around the sides to loop your guylines on.
  • Dining area: Picnic tables outside of the check-in kiosk. There is one structure built with a picnic table inside for protection from the elements. Luckily, it was a nice day for us, so we cooked at the completely outdoor picnic table. Not a lot of space here at all! You may have to limit your time to make room for others.
  • Convenience store: The check-in kiosk has a few snacks for sale. You can also walk all the way down to the Refugio area for more snack and drink options.
  • Trash service: None, all trash has to be packed out.
  • WiFi: Yes, but only works near the Refugio and the camping check-in kiosk.
  • The most awkward campsite/ Refugio. The trail passes through the middle of the area.
  • The camp is situated on a hill. The top part above the trail consists of the camping check-in kiosk, the camping area, and the cooking zones.
  • The stuff below the trail is still necessary for campers. The washbasins are down there, as well as the toilets and showers. There’s a small picnic table down there too next to the bathrooms for cooking as well.
  • Very far down below with views of the lake is the Refugio check-in building which also has a bar and serves the food for the Refugio guests, and the domes (Refugio cabins). We walked down there and it wasn’t very worth the walk back up, in my opinion.
Platforms at Frances campground. Yellow tents are rental tents.
Rock anchor securing tent to wooden platform for backcountry outdoor camping.

Cuernos

I did not stay here, so here is an overview of what I saw from my bathroom stop here and walking through the area.

  • Campground is right on the trail/ seems scattered around the trail area.
  • The deck and main building are really nice – great views of Lago Nordenskjold.
  • Indoor bathrooms and showers are also nice – similar to other Refugios, but not as nice as Frances.
  • The cooking room is attached to the main dining/check-in/ Refugio building. Kind of looked like a converted barn from the outside. Big and lots of picnic tables.
  • Cabins were visible from the trail heading toward central. Looked like very nice buildings!
  • WiFi was available.
  • Snacks were available at the check-in counter.
  • Not sure about garbage – seems like the Las Torres sites do not provide trash services (except for Seron).
  • Overall seems like a nicer place to stay than Frances. If doing the O or W going towards central, I’d opt to stay here instead of Frances. But, I’d stay at Frances if doing the W towards Paine Grande. It sets you up better for the Britanico climb. Or you can stay at both – do the Britanico climb the day you stay at Frances (you’d just have to backtrack a little bit – like 0.3 miles).

Chileno

  • Check-in: Check-in for camping starts at 1 pm. Camp platforms are assigned based on arrival time, so if you want to be lower down the hill, get there early. The check-in booth is the large green building slightly uphill from the main Refugio building.
  • Bathrooms: In the green building next to the camping check-in window. There is an attendant outside since day hikers have to pay if they want to use these toilets! They are very observant and can tell if you are a backpacker or day hiker. Bathrooms do close for cleaning. No men’s/women’s separation, just a bunch of individual stalls and showers.
  • Charging electronics: There are outlets and charging areas all throughout the main Refugio dining room.
  • Camping area: Camping is on platforms up on a hill. Platforms are assigned at check-in.
  • Dining area: Camper “kitchen” is in the main Refugio building dining room. It is limited to a white table in the corner where you can use stoves. You can’t use stoves anywhere else or at your tent platform/ outside on the picnic tables. You can eat at the picnic tables outside or on the inside table that doesn’t have a “reserved” sign on it. We were not kicked out of the dining room – but did leave at 7 pm when the first Refugio dinner seating began.
  • Convenience store: Small snack selection at the Refugio check-in desk inside the main dining area. There is also hot kitchen food served during certain times and beer on tap. Kitchen food selection will vary (like hamburgers on the menu, but not available). Quesadilla was weird… had Mayo and meat in it and very little cheese… and was served with sides of ketchup and Dijon mustard… I couldn’t tell if I was being trolled or not, but it was food!
  • Trash service: Cannot leave behind any garbage. Must take everything back to town – or at least the entrance center where the busses do the drop-off/pick up as there are trash cans there.
  • WiFi: Yes.
  • Many picnic tables outside – lots of day hikers all throughout the day. It’s actually a really fun place to people-watch!
  • Water spigot is outside the Refugio building near the Chileno sign for potable water.
  • The check-out time is 9:00 am here. If you are going up to Mirador Base Torres for sunrise, make sure you are back in time to take your tent down before 9:00 am!
Chileno Refugio building.
Chileno camping platforms.

Torres del Paine Campsites FAQ

Are There Free Campsites on the O and W Hikes?

Not right now. CONAF used to run free campgrounds (that still required a reservation), but there has not been an update on if these will ever reopen.

Do I Need To Stay in These Designated Campsites to Hike the O or W?

Yes. Dispersed camping is prohibited in Torres del Paine.

Do I Need to Stay at Every Campground?

No, you don’t, though it might seem that way when you are booking your campsites. I go into detail about how to hike the O Circuit faster in my full backpacking guide.

Is There Hot Water for Cooking? Do I Need My Own Stove?

There was not hot water available on my trip in 2023. But, in hearing from others about their trip, people were able to get hot water from Refugio staff everywhere except Los Perros.

Personally, I’d carry the extra half pound of my own stove/pot/fuel to prevent having to track down hot water because the Refugio buildings are sometimes far from the camping kitchen areas.

Why Are the Prices So Different at Las Torres vs. Vertice?

Great question! I could not tell you why: I actually liked the Vertice campgrounds and Refugios more than the ones ran by Las Torres. I think the main answer is profit & they may have more costs in maintaining the wooden platforms at the camps.

Where Should I Stay Before and After My Trek?

There are lots of hotel options inside the park if you want to extend your stay in Torres del Paine. Or you can stay in Puerto Natales, a more economical option.

Book Your Torres del Paine Adventure!

Backpacking the O Circuit was one of the most rewarding and beautiful experiences of my life. Having a clear picture of the campgrounds would have helped me prep the right gear, plan my meals, and feel like I could chill a little bit more.

Whether you’re camping or staying in refugios, the key is being prepared. And now you are.

👉 Ready to lock in your route? Book your campsites and refugios here and get one step closer to an unforgettable Patagonia adventure.

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20 Comments

  1. Hi,
    I would like to ask, if we just want a hot water in the camp site is there a kettle available for public use or we would need to bring our own stove?
    thank you in advance!

    1. Hi Tang,
      It’s been two years since I hiked the trail, so things could have changed, but there was no hot water available for campers. You needed to bring your own stove, pot, and fuel to boil water. There are many hikers and you may find someone who is willing to help you out, but I’d at least plan to carry your own fuel if you want to bum off of others. You might be able to get hot water at some campgrounds from the mini stores coffee machines but you’re potentially at the mercy of the staff for helping you – and I don’t recall stores at campsites like Seron and Los Perros to have a lot.

  2. Hi,
    I read through plenty of articles, trip reports, etc. during my trip research. None of them supplied so valuable information related to campgrounds/refugios. Not even official pages of camp maintainers.
    So, thank you so much for it.

  3. Hi Emily, thank you for such a detailed blog on your experience. I’m having trouble finding concrete information on transportation. How did you get from Puerto Natales to the park (to start your hike at the Welcome Center to Seron?) thank you in advance.

    1. Hey Kayla, thanks for writing and I’m glad you liked the post. Apologies – I’ve been meaning to write a comprehensive post about travel around Patagonia – it’s coming at some point! 🙂 But to answer your question briefly, I took a bus by Bus-Sur from Puerto Natales to Laguna Amarga. I booked via Busbud. Then, I took the park bus to Central. I marked down that it cost 3,000 CLP one-way and they were cash only in January 2023! The park bus basically times the other busses arriving – it was a little confusing and hectic at first because you have to get off the first bus and show your entry fee payment to the park rangers and then get on a new bus, but it ended up working out fine. On the way out, there are scheduled times for the shuttle to go back to Laguna Amarga – the schedule is posted at the welcome center at Central. Hope that helps!

      1. Thank you so much Emily! I really appreciate you providing that additional information so quickly! Wishing you all the best 🥰!

  4. This is the best overview I’ve read for the O Trek. Thank you so much for all the hard work you put into it, it’s invaluable as I prepare for my own trip at the end of the year.

  5. I have a Lanshan-1 trekking pole tent. Do you think using a pole tent would be an issue at any of the campsites on the O or W circuit?

    1. Hi Eric – I included some pictures of the platforms you’ll be required to set your tent up on at Frances, Cuernos, and Chileno. I bought special fishhook like tent stakes for a couple on my lines, which I’d recommend unless all of your guy lines are super long. I used the Gossamer Gear The One – a trekking pole tent and it held up just fine. The wind could be an issue – I’d make sure you can set up your tent in the wind, set up your tent so the narrow side is always facing into the wind, and make sure you are staking your tent in well – all things you are probably doing with a trekking pole tent anyways. My windiest night was at Paine Grande and I was able to grab a site with a windbreak which helped. Lots of fine sand & dirt still got blown into my tent with doors closed, so you might experiment with pitching lower so your door is closer to the ground in windy conditions.

  6. Thanks so much for this guide! You are the first person who has posted pictures of their tent setup, which I appreciate since I am considering the Gossamer Gear The One as my shelter. How was the condensation?

    I am a photographer like you, and I am wondering how much did you actually use your camera. I’ve found more and more I use my phone in RAW format while hiking and I’ve reduced my camera almost exclusively to an astrophotography role. However, my phone can do astrophotography too (except not in RAW). I’ve considered leaving the camera behind (gasp!) to save weight. How was your experience photography wise there?

    1. Hey Fernando – you’re welcome!
      I didn’t have condensation issues with the tent beyond the normal single wall tent condensation issues – it was never like an abnormal amount – it was pretty breezy at all of my camps except Los Perros and it wasn’t super cold overnight at most places. At Los Perros I just slept with my doors open since camps were in the forest and protected from wind.

      I used my camera a lot because I just like the look of my camera pictures vs. phone photos – phone usually looks over-sharpened to me. It’s very much personal preference. I did not do any astrophotography on this trip but I brought my tripod. I only set the tripod up twice – it was pretty windy and definitely risky to set up and leave the camera unattended even at a short distance – my tripod was blown over with camera on in El Chalten and I had to get my lens repaired due to the fall.

      The pictures in this blog post are mostly iPhone 13 Pro because I didn’t really care to take pro-level images of the Refugios/ camping areas. I wouldn’t leave my camera behind on any once-in-a-lifetime trip – but we’re all very different in our priorities. Like with all photography, it really depends on your end use of the photos and your personal taste.

  7. Meu amigo. Seu post foi um achado que contribuiu e muito para me ajudar nas inúmeras duvidas que tinha. Muito obrigado!! gratidão sempre!

  8. Hello Emily!
    First of all : WOW WOW and WOW!!!!!!!! What a job you did there!!!! Bravo!!

    I was woudering, when you did the hike to base of Torres, were you with all your gear (full backpack) or you were with a day pack? And if you were with a day pack, where did you leave your gear?

    Thanks!

    1. Hi Melanie! Thanks glad you found it helpful! So for my hike to Base Torres I stayed at Chileno the night before. They want all of your gear packed & you out of the campground by 9 am I believe – so we did a sunrise hike up to the base – and I left all of my sleeping gear/ tent etc. still set up down at the camp and just hiked with my backpack, and made sure I was back at camp by 9 and then packed up and hiked out.