Backpack the 4 Lakes Loop via Swift Creek: Trinity Alps Wilderness

The Four Lakes Loop is one of the best backpacking trails in Northern California. Located in the Trinity Alps Wilderness, it’s one of those trails that gives you a lot of bang for your buck. Mountain views, alpine lakes, forest hiking, and a good workout to boot (these views are worth the effort, I promise!).

The Four Lakes Loop is unique because there are multiple approach routes you can take to get to the core of the loop. In this guide, I’ll be focusing on a lesser-used approach to this trail: the Swift Creek Approach via Granite Lake.

I’m going to go over the route, talk about permits needed, special gear you’ll want to bring, and the best campsites along this route.

4 Lakes Loop Backpacking Trip Planning

Route options of the 4 Lakes Loop Trail

The Four Lakes Loop by itself is a 5.75 mile trail with 2,000 feet of elevation gain and loss. The trail passes by four different lakes: Luella, Diamond, Summit, and Deer.

However, you can’t hike this 5.75 mile loop without hiking to the trail via an approach trail.

There are three options for getting to the main loop: Long Canyon, Stoney Ridge, and Swift Creek. A fourth option from the Granite Peak trailhead exists. But, it’s a bit longer and makes more sense for those only want to climb Granite Peak as a day hike.

All these routes have very different approaches. But, the Long Canyon and Stoney Ridge trails do link up at Deer Creek Pass, right before entering the 4 Lakes Loop.

In order from shortest to longest:

• Long Canyon Trailhead approach: 17.5 miles and 7,000 feet of elevation gain & loss.
• Stoney Ridge Trailhead approach: 21.3 miles and 7,400 feet of elevation gain & loss.
• Swift Creek Trailhead approach: 22.2 miles and 8,000 feet of elevation gain & loss.

As you can see, there isn’t a huge difference in mileage and vertical between these options.

I chose to hike the Swift Creek approach because of the allure of camping at Granite Lake. I also wanted my group to have an easier first day in the backcountry.

While I’m going to be describing the Swift Creek approach, most of the other information in this post can still be applied to the other two routes.

Backpacking permits in the Trinity Alps Wilderness

You need two permits for backpacking in the Trinity Alps. An overnight use permit and a campfire permit.

It is so easy to get overnight backpacking permits for the Trinity Alps Wilderness!

All you need to do is show up at a Shasta-Trinity Ranger Station and fill out a permit. You leave part of the permit in the box, and take the other half with you on your hike.

Please make sure you always get a permit. By tracking the number of people using the trails, the forest service can prove that people use them and ask the government for more funding. Plus, you could get fined for not having a permit.

The two most convenient places to get a permit are the Weaverville Ranger Station and the USDA Shasta-Trinity National Forest Office in Redding.

If you are driving into Redding via I-5 from the north, you can also get a permit from the Shasta Lake Ranger Station, right off of I-5.

My group was driving into Redding after work from the Bay Area and staying in a motel in town, so we got our permit at the Redding station. We went after closing time and filled out the permit at the DIY stand in front of the building. Make sure you bring a pen! Sometimes they don’t have one.

Getting a campfire permit is really easy. You just need to watch this video and take the quiz at home. And then you print out the paper it gives you and you sign it. You need to do this every calendar year. You can also get one at a forest service office when they are open.

You also need a campfire permit to operate a stove in the forest, which you’ll probably be doing on a backpacking trip!

Campfires on the Four Lakes Loop

Campfires are always prohibited in the Four Lakes Basin.

Hike the loop clockwise or counterclockwise?

No matter which direction you go, you’re going to have one big climb and one smaller climb to complete on the loop.

On my trip, I entered the loop near Deer Creek and went counter-clockwise towards Luella Lake. I chose this path because we wanted to camp at Diamond Lake, and this was the most direct route from Granite Lake. My group also wanted to have the option to hike Siligo Peak the following morning.

I think counter-clockwise is the best option because the clockwise climb from Deer Creek to Deer Lake and up to the pass seems kind of miserable. The trail is mostly shaded up to Deer Lake, but is exposed from the lake to the pass. That part of the trail sees sun in the afternoon, but is shaded in the morning.

If I’m miserable going downhill, I know it’s going to be bad going uphill – haha.

Campsite options

There are camping options at each lake on the loop, but not any on the trail between the lakes.

Summit Lake has the most camping options. If you are hiking on the weekend, arriving late to camp, or have a larger group, I’d aim to camp there.

Deer Lake has a couple of campsites on the hill just north of the lake, and another set of campsites on the south side of the lake. Don’t expect privacy here though, these spots are open without tree cover and can be seen from the pass above Deer Lake.

Diamond Lake has a few sites. The best one is under a large tree right off of the trail. It’s technically not Leave No Trace-friendly since it’s right on the trail, but it is used. We camped in a site in the rocks above the trail. It comfortably has space for two tents, but we were able to squeeze three into the space – it was very tight though.

There are also some bivy/ cowboy camping sites on the rocks below the lake with gorgeous views of Sawtooth Mountain.

Luella Lake is gorgeous, but due to how rocky it is around the lake, there are not a lot of sites. I can usually pick sites out pretty well, and even while I climbed above the lake I had a hard time identifying any. If you do find one, it’ll be a ways back on the eastern side of the lake and probably only room for one-two tents among the rocks.

There are camping options on the approach trails as well.

If you are taking the Stoney Ridge route, I would camp at Echo Lake. You could do a basecamp here and day hike the loop from here easily.

Taking the Swift Creek approach, I would camp at Granite Lake. I would not recommend doing the loop from a basecamp here though. It would be a really long day.

Trailhead & Parking

Googling “Swift Creek Trailhead” will bring you to the right spot on Google Maps. Here is the link.

Swift Creek Road leaves CA-3 and is paved for a little bit before turning into a dirt road. The road is a little rough with some rocks, but a regular sedan was able to make it to the trailhead with minor maneuvering.

The main parking lot right next to the trailhead doesn’t have a ton of room for cars: maybe 15 if they’re parked well. There is a much larger lot next to the pit toilet that says is reserved for horse trailers, so don’t park there if you’re in a regular car.

There is an extra lot immediately before the road veers right to the main lot, and you can park there for overflow. There is a side trail that leads into the Swift Creek Trail from that lower lot.

There are no bear lockers in this lot. If you have any extra food or smellables, you should lock them in your car out of sight. And be sure to keep your windows rolled up since the lot is dusty. Please note that the Forest Service does not recommend you leave anything with a scent in your vehicle.

Best time of year to hike the 4 Lakes Loop Trail

Summer is the best time to hike in the Trinities. Usually July – September will have the best hiking weather.

It’s always hard to predict when the snow will melt, but I went at the end of July after a slightly above-average snow year and there was no snow to contend with.

In a low snow year, you could probably complete this trail in late June since the highest elevation is 7,800 feet.

In a heavy snow year like the ‘22-’23 winter, make sure you hit the trail prepared. There are a few “no fall” zones on this hike, specifically around Siligo Peak and above Deer Lake. Having items like an ice axe and microspikes will still be necessary if there’s a lot of snow on the ground.

Mosquitoes are the worst during the snowmelt time and through July. You should treat your hiking clothes and gear with Permethrin to avoid getting eaten alive.

Northern California usually sees the first major snowfall in late October – early November, which effectively ends the hiking season. Temperatures in the Trinities are usually very cold by October. Small streams will usually be dried up by this time too.

If you are considering a shoulder season hike in the Trinities, I highly recommend calling the Weaverville Ranger Station ((530) 623-2121) and checking in on this active Facebook group.

Weather in the Trinity Alps Wilderness

In the summer, the Trinity Alps experiences mostly warm weather.

Due to it’s lower elevation, it doesn’t see super cold nights like the High Sierra in the middle of the summer. I was comfortable in just a fleece at night and with a 40°F sleeping quilt.

Since you’re in the mountains, there’s always a chance of a random storm forming, but the Trinities are generally dry in the summer.

Trails in the Trinities are a mix of forested and exposed. Be sure to wear UPF-protected clothing and bring sunscreen to avoid nasty sunburns. You should also bring electrolytes to add to your water to replenish the salts you sweat out.

The biggest weather obstacles will be the heat and the higher likelihood of wildfires and smoke.

Bears & other animals in the Trinity Alps

Black bears are prevalent and active in the Trinity Alps. Due to the increase in wilderness users, there have been more human-bear interactions in recent years.

To keep yourself safe from bears and bears safe from you, the best thing you can do is keep a clean camp and store your food properly.

Bear canisters are not required in the Trinity Alps (yet), but they are the best way to keep bears and other small animals from getting your food, and is what I recommend packing.

If you are a pro at bear hangs, you are allowed to hang your food in the Trinity Alps. There is no required method, but the PCT hang is one of the most efficient. Due to the prevalence of small critters, you should consider using a more sturdy hanging bag – like the Ursack.

Whatever method you use, the Forest Service asks to keep food well away from your camp: 200 feet minimum is usually what is recommended. You should also eat your meals away from camp. Practicing these methods will reduce the likelihood of bears and other animals coming into your camp at night.

In addition to bears, there are lots of deer in the Trinities and small animals like rattlesnakes, squirrels, and raccoons. Marmots can be found at higher elevations as well.

Bees are also something you should be aware of in the Trinities. I was stung by a bee on my trip – and it hurt A LOT. Luckily I know I am not allergic. If you are allergic, make sure you have an Epi-Pen and antihistamines in your first aid kit, and an evacuation plan. This was an unprovoked sting too – it happened while I was hiking up the climb to Luella Lake – I never even saw or heard the bee.

Poison Oak

Poison Oak can mainly be found below 2,000 feet elevation. I don’t recall seeing any right on trail on the Swift Creek Route, but just be aware that it does exist in the Trinities!

What To Pack

When backpacking, gear can be an important factor to happiness on the trail. Everyone’s needs are different, but I highly suggest you bring lightweight, durable gear.

The climbs in the Trinity Alps can be very steep and intense. Having light gear will enhance your time in the wilderness.

Leave No Trace

As a good steward of the environment, it is your duty to abide by Leave No Trace Principles when recreating in the wild.

This entire trip takes place in the Trinity Alps Wilderness. Designated wilderness in the United States has special rules for recreation which state that motorized and mechanical equipment is not allowed to be used. This means that items like drones, bikes, and strollers can’t be used here.

Please take a moment to brush up on Leave No Trace principles before embarking on your trip. The Shasta-Trinity National Forest has a specific wilderness ethics information guide you should read as well.

As a quick refresher, these are the 7 Leave No Trace Principles:

1. Plan Ahead & Prepare
2. Travel and Camp on Durable Surfaces
3. Dispose of Waste Properly
4. Leave What You Find
5. Minimize Campfire Impacts
6. Respect Wildlife
7. Be Considerate of Others

Route Description & Trail Notes for Backpacking the 4 Lakes Loop via the Swift Creek Trailhead

Day one: Swift Creek Trailhead to Granite Lake

• 5 miles, +2,400, -500 feet elevation

Our day started early in Redding with another 2ish hours of driving to the Swift Creek Trailhead. It was a Friday and the parking lot was already nearly full by the time we arrived, around 10 am.

We finished the final touches of packing and getting ready and set off on the trail! The trail was heavily forested during this first section which was really nice since it was already warm!

The trail very mildly descended and ascended for 1.25 miles before coming to the Swift Creek Bridge, which was a very nice, big bridge.

Right before the bridge were a series of camping areas, which we took a lunch break at. Since we only had 5 miles to hike today, we were happy to take our time and enjoy shade.

After the bridge and out break we continued climbing through the forest. I loved this part since there were so many ferns and trees, which was a nice contrast to the exposed granite of the Eastern Sierra, where my previous summer trips were.

Eventually we popped out of the forest and were treated to lots of brush with wildflowers blooming brilliantly! I loved this section since we were hiking right next to Granite Creek. I felt like I was in a fairytale forest meadow. We also started getting some views of some distant peaks, which we later learned was Gibson Peak.

The trail continued climbing through more forest, a bit of a rocky area, then passing by Gibson Meadow before the final ascent to Granite Lake. We spent quite a bit of time looking for a good campsite by the lake, before settling on a large spot in the woods on the eastern side of the lake. It has easy access to the large rock hill that you have to climb up to get views of the lake.

There were lots of scattered single tent sites on the rocky hill, but our spot in the forest was much better for spreading out and blending into the landscape vs. being exposed to everyone walking through that area.

There were a few other groups camped at the lake, but everyone found their own spot and was very chill and polite.

Since it was getting late, we went down to the lake and explored a bit and dipped our legs in before heading back to camp and getting dinner started. We relaxed for a bit and watched the sun set from the rocky ledges behind our camping area, where we had great views of Mt. Shasta peeking out in the distance.

Day two: Granite Lake to Diamond Lake

• 6.2 miles, +3,000, -1,700 feet elevation

After a restful sleep, we woke up early, knowing it was going to be hot, to get our day started. I took some sunrise pictures which were not the best since a wildfire has broken out a few days earlier and there was smoke in the area. Luckily, we knew it was far away from us before we started the trip. We could only hope that the smoke wouldn’t get worse.

After eating breakfast and packing up, we re-found the trail and started our ascent up to Seven Up Pass. The climbing was more vigorous than yesterday, but I was still so happy. We were again hiking next to Granite Creek and we were surrounded by plants and wildflowers. It was amazing!

Eventually, the trail left the creek and that’s when our hike turned into a little bit of a bushwhack. The trail was heavily overgrown in spots and sometimes the trail just kind of disappeared. It was hard to tell if the trail went into overgrowth or we were supposed to take a very faint trail around it.

This part of the hike was completely exposed with no tree cover, so we were hot, but the views around us were fantastic. Sloping moutainsides of green shrubs and flowers on the side we were climbing up contrasted against the pure granite of the opposite mountainside. It was stunning.

Once we reached the top of the pass, we hung out for a bit admiring the views and enjoying the shade from the large trees at the top. We looked at our maps and matched the peaks we saw with the topography on the paper. Seeing the Red Trinities clash with the White Trinities in the distance was really cool.

After our break, we decided to do the full descent and take lunch down at the bottom near the creek. And boy, did it feel like the longest descent in the world. It started out great with the views and easy hiking, but it was long. And once we reached the forest at the bottom, we kind of lost the trail.

We picked it up pretty easily, but we did have to do a bit of a scavenger hunt through downed trees and thick manzanita. Eventually, we found the trail again by Deer Creek, and hiked up the rise to the intersection of the Four Lakes Trail.

Here we found a pretty uncomfy area that was not well-suited for a break for 5 people and 1 dog, but there was plenty of fresh water flowing from a little stream, and we made it work, all of us clamoring for the tiniest bits of shade we could get from the one tree in the otherwise wide open meadow.

After our lunch break and filling up with ice cold creek water, we started our climb on the Four Lakes Loop up to Luella Lake. I was expecting the second climb of the day to hit me hard, but I was feeling pretty good and peppy! Until a bee stung me in the butt as I was hiking. It hurt like hell.

Luckily, I’m not allergic, but I spent the rest of the climb wondering what I would have done if I didn’t know if I was or was not allergic to bees. Or if I randomly became allergic and didn’t know! Ahh anxiety!

We got to Luella Lake and chilled out again. We debated going for a swim, but it was a little windy and decided we really wanted to get to Diamond Lake and could swim there. So, we continued the climb up to the pass above Luella.

The views from there looking back on Luella were amazing. We could see Seven Up Pass across the valley and the very distinct demarkation of the red rock colliding with the grey granite on that mountainside. It was so cool. And luckily, we didn’t have smoke interfering with our views.

At the top of the pass we were greeted to more yellow jackets buzzing by one of the trees, so we booked it out of there and descended to Diamond Lake in record time, admiring the views of the White Trinities across the canyon.

Once at Diamond Lake we got to work finding a campsite for our three tents. It was a bit of work making an already established area above the trail work for us, but we amazingly all managed to fit on the pad.

After settling in, it was time to swim! It was such a lovely little lake and surprisingly pretty warm! After enjoying the lake, we went back to camp, changed into our base layers, ate dinner, and then walked back over to the big rocky dome next to the lake and watched the sun set behind Sawtooth Peak and the White Trinities. It was a gorgeous night.

Day three: Diamond Lake to Granite Lake

• 6.2 miles, +2,000, -3,300 feet elevation

Waking up for sunrise was a little difficult for me this morning, but I still got to see some lovely morning light. We all ate breakfast, packed up, and started our hike up to the ridge above Summit Lake.

I was immediately disappointed in myself for not hiking up this way during better evening or morning light and taking pictures of Diamond Lake with the White Trinities in the distance. Oh well, next time, right?!

Soon enough we were on the ridge. We had all been debating if we should climb Siligo Peak, but we decided with the climb back up to Seven Up Pass, it might be a little too much to add on. I was a little bummed later in the day because we got back to Granite Lake so early, but oh well! Again – save it for next time!

We peeked at Summit Lake through the trees, but skipped walking down to the lake since it’s a little off the main path. Instead, we set our eyes on Deer Lake. The hike down the mountain through the red rock felt like I was in another world, and it was fun getting different views of Deer Lake, Siligo Peak, and Gibson Peak as we descended.

We reached the lake and took a snack break in the shade by the lakeshore, watching other hikers ascend and descend the ridge we just came from. After our break, we crossed the lake’s outlet and began the descent of our last chunk of the 4 lakes loop. It was a pretty steep descent through mixed rocks and woods, but before we knew it, we were at the bottom and crossing Deer Creek again.

We began our hike back up to Seven Up Pass, again navigating the brush and downed trees trying to find the trail. We eventually found it for real and trudged along. This was a steep climb at a grade of 800 ft/mile, and we took plenty of short breaks on the exposed climb up.

When we could see the pass, we were all excited, and the last few switchbacks seemed a little easier. Feeling accomplished at the top, we took a nice long lunch break admiring the views and resting. The weather was perfect and we were feeling so happy to have no more climbing!

After our break, it was back downhill to Granite Lake. On our first night, we scoped out a campsite on the northern side of the lake that we wanted to grab for tonight, so we were going down the hill at a quicker pace, and it seemed a little easier to follow the trail going down this way.

Once at Granite Lake we enjoyed swimming and out final night of backpacking meals and sleeping under the stars.

Day four: Granite Lake to Swift Creek Trailhead

• 5 miles, +500, -2,400 feet elevation

Today was all about making it back to the car! Nothing eventful happened except that I tripped over nothing and banged my shin on a rock. It left a bruise that finally went away in December.

We had amazing burgers and fries in Weaverville at the Tangle Blue Saloon, and then drove back home to San Francisco!

Have any questions, comments, or memories about the 4 Lakes Loop or Trinity Alps Wilderness that you’d like to share? Let me know in the comments below!

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